Different leather samples might seem alike when you lay them out, but their behavior during cutting, folding, stitching, or burnishing can vary widely. One reason for this discrepancy is the thickness of the leather, but temper is equally important. For example, a vegetable-tanned leather that is firm may stay relatively stiff and refuse to bend when attempting to cut a clean edge. Meanwhile, another leather sample that has the same thickness but is more flexible will bend, stretch, and slide around when placed underneath a template. Knowing how thickness and temper affect a leather sample’s behavior before you start your first project is essential.
Most people are aware of the thickness of a leather sample because it can be identified by touch. A thick sample feels heavy and requires more effort to cut, and multiple layers will result in a bulkier piece. This is helpful when constructing a rigid project, but if you want to fold a smaller leather sample and join it, too many layers might complicate things. Additionally, stitching those layers may become challenging and result in a bulkier seam. Conversely, a thin leather sample is more pliable and useful for creating smaller components, but it may also be more prone to stretching or warping during marking and cutting. Neither thick nor thin leather is universally superior. What matters most is determining which thickness best suits the functionality of your sample.
The temper refers to the stiffness or suppleness of the leather. To get an idea of the temper, pick up an offcut by one corner and observe if it hangs straight or sags. Gently bend it and observe how well it holds a crease. A stiffer sample will provide a flat surface to work with, allowing you to transfer a pattern and make a straight cut more easily. On the other hand, a softer leather might shift under a ruler or change shape when pulled, complicating both marking and cutting processes. This distinction becomes particularly noticeable when working with curved edges, narrow straps, and aligned edges.
A good practice is to test different offcuts before beginning a project. Try different thicknesses and tempers by placing the same small cardstock template on each sample, tracing it, and avoiding any pulling. Make both straight and curved cuts with a sharp leather knife or utility knife. Pay attention to the amount of pressure needed to cut the sample, how well the cutting line holds, and whether the leather resists the ruler. The objective isn’t to produce a flawless piece; instead, it is to link your expectations before cutting with what actually happens after cutting.
A leather sample that is too thick for a beginner project might lead to issues during subsequent steps. You may find yourself skiving to reduce the thickness of a folded section. Stitching chisels will have more layers to penetrate, and multiple layers could create edges that are too thick, requiring further skiving. Conversely, using a very supple leather for a component that requires stability may cause the layers to misalign. The leather may stretch as you mark holes, changing the spacing between them despite having initially marked consistent distances. While you may perceive these problems as poor technique, the material choice may contribute to them.
After cutting your sample pieces, take a closer look at the pieces beyond their shapes. Compare the surfaces of two matching pieces for signs of stretching or marks. Examine the edges of two identical pieces to see if they align without being forced together. Bend each sample along the same crease and feel for resistance. If you intend to stitch, mark a short line and punch several holes to see how the leather responds. These checks help you translate the abstract concepts of thickness and temper into physical characteristics that you can identify through touch.
Ideally, a well-chosen leather sample will facilitate the step at hand rather than present a challenge throughout the process. With time, you’ll learn to recognize these differences by examining the sample before cutting: How does the hide sit on the cutting board? Does the edge curl? Does the grain stretch slightly when you apply light pressure? These simple observations can save you from a host of cutting, folding, alignment, and stitching challenges down the road.
